Winter warmers

My grandfather used to make the best beef stew. It was hearty, chunky, and clearly made out of love. He would make it on a cold, wet winter’s day, and serve it up with a big slice of my grandmother’s buttery cornbread. His beef stew would warm you from the inside out in ways that other soups and stews just can't.  The big chunky bites of potato, beef, and celery paired with the slightly acidic tomatoes and the bite of the chili powder make this a dish you love to eat.  The many different textures and individual flavours make each bite its own unique little treat.  This dish was pure love in a bowl.

This time of year in London, it starts getting dark before 4 pm, and the cold, grey, wet days seem endless. We spend a lot of energy this time of year just trying to get warm. We wrap up with hats and scarves, turn up the heat in certain rooms and shut the doors, and we cook warm hearty winter meals. There is a stall in the street market that is offering beef stew, and Mark is hungry for it. Not wanting to eat a bowl of stew shivering on the sidewalk, I offered to make some for him in the cozy warmth of our own home. I’m not sure what his version of beef stew looks like, and I’ve never made him mine. So it is with a tentative but genuine heart, I make him my beef stew.

Start by browning two small oxtail segments in olive oil, followed by 1.5 lbs (.75 kilos) of cubed beef (1 to 1 ½ inches square) in a large dutch oven pot. Remove the meat and set aside.

In the same pot, sautee 1 cup each of chopped shallots, celery, and carrots (sometimes called the holy trinity – although I can’t imagine these three without garlic.  So what would that be - the holy quad?) Salt, and sweat these until slightly softened. Add 6 large garlic cloves, crushed and coarsely chopped. Remove from the pot and set aside.

Deglaze with a little red wine, and add the meat back to the pot. Season with paprika, chilli powder, salt, black pepper, fresh rosemary (only a very little bit), thyme, two sage leaves, and flat leaf parsley – all finely chopped. Add 2 cups water and simmer. Add the trinity and garlic.

Add 4 cups of coarsely chopped fresh tomatoes.

Peel and chop 3 large potatoes into 1 inch squares. Add about 2/3 of the potatoes now, and reserve the rest for later. The potatoes added early will cook down and help to thicken the stew, while the ones added later won’t cook as long, and will stay nice big hearty chunks.

Cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer covered for 1 hour.

Add the remaining potatoes, transfer to a hot oven (400F/220C) and cook for 2 hours.

Serve in a bowl over mashed potatoes made relatively dry.  The mashed potatoes add a smooth element of texture to the big chunky bits of the stew.  Like a warm blanket.

This is a dish that only improves with age, so make a little extra and store in the fridge for a few days.  When re-heating, take the time to do it stove top rather than microwave.  Give a chance for all of those flavors which have been maturing for a few days to blend perfectly together.

I hope you enjoy this hearty winter warmer from the inside out!